I close my eyes and, after awhile, recapture the view of Mount Everest and its sister peaks floating in silken clouds before daybreak; the postcard villages and fields seen during the bus trip winding down to Kathmandu; the crowds at Trivandrum Airport, and the hours of queuing and being frisked and frisked twice more. To prevent another highjacking during the re-entry flight to Delhi, they said. And none of us complained.
I can’t escape the reek of these urinals, but I can pretend I’m breathing in the clean, cold air of the hills. And I can conjure the faces of our traveling companions, safely winging their way back home to the good old USA. And here we are, trying to get to Dehra Dun. What a stupid idea, I think. What a stupid quest. How could I ever have thought I could return? You can’t recapture what has been; everyone says, "You can’t go home again."
I succeed in convincing myself that home, unlike my memories, will have changed or may have disappeared by the time the conductor returns. He clears his throat and flicks invisible crumbs off his navy blue uniform.
"I have found your names on the passenger list," he says, "but one berth only."
No argument. We grab our packs and follow him like prisoners receiving an unexpected reprieve. As he ushers us into our compartment, a youth in the upper bunk gives us a shy smile, and the man we assume is his father nods hello.
Dee and I give in to our exhaustion. We work out a system where we can fit in the one narrow bunk if we lie like spoons in a drawer, me on the inside. While this is going on, we ignore their spying on us through lowered lashes.
Dehra Dun, Dehra Dun, the night train clacks along the rails in a reassuring monotony. I haven’t quite stopped trembling from the flow of adrenaline that started in the station and increased with each confrontation, and willingly give over to the train’s rock-and-sway. We are on our way. I breathe in the comforting scent of my husband’s skin, a smell like green tea and citrons, and my shakes begin to lessen. Dee reaches back with a love pat and I raise up enough to lean over and kiss him.
At that moment our neighbor turns toward us, sighing loudly as he draws the blanket up under his chin, and proceeds to introduce himself as a railroad man from Bombay. He and his family have been traveling with another family since early morning, not of this day, but the day before. They are eight people, he says, with five bunks.
I nudge Dee, whisper, "That explains it."
"What?" he whispers back.
"Why our berths were appropriated."